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Moulting -Now you see them now you don’t

Moulting hen showing pin feathers

What is a Moult?

Moulting is an annual Autumnal phenomenon that begins at approx 18 months and older hens. In reality, she will experience her first full moult in her second Autumn, and then every year after that.

What happens?

Bam! At a time when you think that hens actually need a good feather covering, almost overnight, the coop looks like an explosion in a pillow factory. The girls drop feathers like it’s a drunken pool party in Ibiza. They also renew the scales on their legs too. Moulting can be quite upsetting for people who have not kept hens before, to see how sad they look when they are stripped of their finery. Hens can look like a badly stuffed pillow, really unkempt and uncared-for when this happens. The reverse is true, as they are provided with more protein and are not handled too much to avoid pressing the newly forming quills back into their skin. This is the reality of keeping hens.

The process of creating feathers

Once the feathers start to regrow, the hen will look like a pincushion. The incoming feather shafts are called pin or blood feathers. They are dark and look almost blue. In reality, they are filled with blood which is nourishing the newly forming feathers within the shafts. The pin feathers are very easy to damage and can bleed profusely if broken. Once the feather has finished being created inside its sheath, then the blood supply is no longer needed. The blood is shut off and the sheath begins to flake away. It is made of keratin and will look like dandruff as the hen preens the dried casing to reveal a beautiful new feather.

Other physical changes during the moult

Her comb will shrivel and become pink instead of red. Her face will also go less red than normal. This is in response to the reduction in hormones.

A moulting hen will lose condition, she will look quite dejected if she finds herself at the bottom of the pecking order. Other changes in her body will occur such as reversal of the bleaching phenomenon which removed the colour from legs, skin, and vent areas. Legs, skin and vent will return to the original colour as occurs in a non-laying hen. This is particularly noticeable on yellow skinned and yellow legged birds. The birds legs will return to yellow as the bleaching fades.

Does this affect the pecking order?

When a hen moults, her status within the flock plummets, and hens who were once high up in the pecking order will find themselves struggling to find any peace. They are often in hiding places and are unable to eat when they want. This becomes an ideal opportunity for a lower ranking hen who may not yet be moulting, to triumphantly seize power. Sometimes these once meek hens, turn into little monsters and can really give the shrinking ex-head chickens a really hard time.

In the normal ranking or pecking order, the head chicken (always a girl by the way) eats first, then number 2, then number 3 etc. The lowest ranking hens must wait until all the others have eaten and even then must be given permission by those of a higher rank. Such is the life of a lowly hen.

Why do my hens stop laying in winter?

A moulting hen needs good quality protein in her food because protein is the building block of feathers. Egg production also uses a lot of protein, therefore, no eggs will be laid for the duration of the moult. Something has to give, as all the protein has to be diverted to their feathering needs. A full moult can last 8 weeks with some older hens taking much longer. The moult coincides with the shortening of days which in itself can trigger a shut-off of the egg-laying hormones. These will normally be reactivated once the days start to lengthen again after Christmas. Lack of eggs seems like a sort of curse for the chicken keeper, but it is a good thing. It gives the hens a well-deserved break from the rigours of laying for a few weeks.

Another reason why it is good for chickens to have a break from laying

Oestrogen during a laying cycle prevents calcium depositing into the fabric of the bones so chickens cannot make new bone while laying. During lay, the calcium is deposited into medullary bone material which is constantly mobilised in shell formation. Chickens that never stop laying cannot restock and make new bone which can result in osteoporosis or fragile bones. Another good reason for chickens to take a break.

What is the best food for moulting chickens?

You may hear stories of what to feed your hens while they are moulting. All sorts of codswallop is spouted. Some advocate using growers pellets but most growers pellets are lower in protein so this is a bad move. It also does not contain calcium. Hens use calcium when they are not laying to strengthen their bones so growers pellets is again a bad move. Yet other people advocate dog or cat food, pilchards, anchovies, and other fishy confections. Upsetting the delicate balance of nutrition is a bad move. Hens need all the help they can get at moulting time.

Keep your hens on layers pellets during the moult as the calcium will help top up her depleted reserves and the additional protein it contains will be beneficial for the feather production. If you must feed random junk to your hens then just feed a handful of hemp seeds. This is high protein and has a good nutritional profile.

Moulting at other times

A mini or partial moult, which is usually a neck moult or a chest moult, can occur due to stress. Stress can be anything from a predator fright, or extremes in the weather, too hot, very wet, very windy. Fireworks, loud banging, DIY, lawn-mowing, dogs, or cats will take their toll. They can feel stress by you wearing the wrong wellies, or any change in the environment or habits. Getting the picture? Chickens are stressy creatures. Stress can depress their immune response and egg laying can also be interrupted or erratic for a while.

When a hen goes broody she will pluck her abdomen feathers so she can have skin contact on the eggs in her nest. This bald patch is called a brood patch. It is not a moult in the normal sense of the word but it is a natural cause.

Moulting -Now you see them now you don’t Read More »

Latest Stock

Basket of newly hatched chicks

Latest Stock For Sale

and Breaking News

Latest stock page so you can see at a glance what we have going on and what is the latest chicken availability for sale.

Latest Chicken availability as at 5th January 2025

Our breeding stock have just just finished their moult and the hens are beginning their rest period. We have some hens at close to point of lay available now. Our plan is to get some dayold Hyline Browns in during February. These should be ready to lay late Autumn which will give eggs over the winter. Winter eggs are only available in new hens. Hens that have been through a moult will probably not lay over winter. We have some beautiful Swedish Flower Hens now and a few Salmon Faverolles left from our 2024 hatchings. Faverolles are not yet laying and the Swedish are due to start laying in the next few weeks.

New Breeds Available

We are planning two new breeds for 2025. Lavender Leghorns which will lay a white eggs and Opal Legbars. I have no idea what colour the Legbars are going to lay. I am hoping for blue, but who knows.

Hatching Eggs – Not Available now Till 2025

We don’t have hatching eggs available now till Spring 2025. We should be having Salmon Faverolles, Swedish Flower chickens, Opal Legbar, Lavender Leghorn and USA Silkies.

Enquiries – please use Our Contact Form

You can ask us questions using our contact form. We also produce a newsletter when we have stock available or better yet – actual news!! We don’t email very often so we won’t be filling your mailbox with weekly spam.

Latest stock Available Listed below. Price rises with age each Monday

  • Cockerels – All £15 each (Swedish Flower) – stunning, and Silkie
  • Faverolles – nearing point of lay £45 each
  • Black Rock ® – Delivery awaited
  • Brown Rock ® – Deliveries at intervals during the year – Awaiting a delivery
  • Cream Legbar – available from Summer 2025
  • Swedish Flower hens – point of lay or very close £45
  • Marsh Daisies – available summer 2025
  • Ixworth – Not currently available
  • Norfolk Grey – available summer 2025
  • Opal Legbar – available summer 2025
  • USA Silkies – a trio available (1 cockerel and 2 hens) £105 for the trio.
  • Hy-line Brown – available in chick form mid March 2025
  • Lavender Leghorn – available summer 2025

Breaking News!!!!

Teacher chicken

Exciting development. Our chicken keeping and incubation courses are now ONLINE. See our Poultry Courses Page for details so you can START ONE TODAY.

Easy to follow

We are hoping that people will find the easy-to-follow bite size chunks an enjoyable experience. It is crammed with masses of information you should know about keeping chickens. It will take you on a deep dive into the fascinating world of this wonderful creature. We guarantee that you will therefore learn things that will make you think about chickens in a totally new light.

Getting it right

It will help you to make good equipment choices, and get your husbandry right. Spotting illness quickly is a biggie because unless you are able to spot sickness, it can rapidly get way out of hand. A slow or wrong diagnosis can then be catastrophic for the chicken.

Easing the burden

Getting the right coop for example will make the cleaning out of your chickens a 10 minute job rather than a real thankless task. We help you get it right, first time. This saves you money and time and who doesn’t need some of that?

Benefits

Chickens are enjoyable however making poor choices can take the shine off it very quickly.

Premium Chickenguard

We are now able to offer Chickenguards for your coops

Having chickens is great but getting up early in the morning however to let them out especially in Summer is not so great.

Fitting a chickenguard on your coop means you can have that lie-in or even just get up at normal time rather than chicken time.

Chickenguards will allow you to go out of an evening and not have to get back at dusk to shut your chooks away. Chickenguard will do it all for you. Your chickens will not demand that you become party poopers.

Battery powered with 4 AA batteries which last from 6 to 12 months.

Visit our shop page for more info

Henlay Coop

We are now stocking Henlays Roost chicken coops.

Perfectly designed coops that are manufactured from 12mm thick recycled plastic sheets. That is thicker than most other plastic coops.

Built with both chicken welfare and human welfare in mind because humans matter too. They look and feel solid.

No more back breaking stooping or crouching to clean out. Contortionism is also not required. Just open the roofline, lift the well spaced perches out and hey presto, the entire coop area is at the mercy of your shovel and scraper.

Red mite will be spotted in double quick time so therefore you can treat if necessary as they have no where to hide.

Visit our shop page for details

Latest Stock Read More »

Keeping chickens Warm in winter

Keeping chickens warm

How good are chickens at keeping warm in winter?

How to keep chickens warm when the temperatures drop to zero degrees C is a common worry amongst chicken keepers.  So what problems does this cause for chickens? How do you keep chickens warm in the winter? The quick answer is that chickens are covered in their own feather duvets. They are well able to keep themselves warm without any additional aids or methods.

Frostbite in below freezing temperatures may be an issue for hens or cockerels with large combs on their heads. As chickens remove the warm blood from their combs as the temperature plummets, this can make the comb cooler and therefore vulnerable to frostbite. A slick of Vaseline over the fleshy parts will assist in keeping the comb protected. Keeping the coop draught free but well ventilated will also help to keep it condensation free. It is the condensation which freezes and makes the combs succumb to ice crystals generated by the condensation. You will be helping in keeping chickens warm by making sure they stay dry also.

Chickens naturally cover their tootsies by lowering their feathers as they crouch down to roost overnight. This and tucking their heads under their wings help them keep their extremities warm and toasty. The picture above from a thermal imaging camera shows where the most heat loss is for chickens. Their heads and feet are showing up brighter. Their bodies are not losing much heat at all due their feathery coverage.

The most pressing issue for chickens in this weather is to keep their water free from ice so they can actually drink. Check on their water during the day to make sure. A heat plate or heated wire introduced into the drinker can assist in regions particularly affected by the cold wintery breath of the “beast”.

Winter ice on chicken drinker

A chickens’ metabolism is active all night, so you can keep chickens warm by adding a handful of mixed corn to their diet late afternoon before bedtime. This heats them up from the inside as they digest it while they roost. It is tempting to give them warm porridge or any other warm human food, however, oats has the effect of cooling them down as it happens, so is counter productive. In fact any warm food is counter-productive as it cools them down faster.

What you shouldn’t do

You should not be tempted to add a heater to your coop. This will be a fire hazard. Candles and other apparatus with a naked flame are definitely risky and can cause fires or dangerous fumes. Fumes and birds are a bad combination. Don’t cover the coop with anything like a duvet, carpet etc as you will block the ventilation which can cause condensation inside. Condensation freezing on the skin of the bird will make frostbite more likely. Chickens are better able to cope with the cold than the heat of summer.

Keeping chickens Warm in winter Read More »

Happy New Year

Snow on a shrub

Happy New Year 2025

Snow on a shrub

Wishing you all a happy new year with peace, prosperity and goodwill to all men, women and chickens!! We hope that this coming year is a fabulous one not forgetting those less fortunate than ourselves.

Our thoughts are with the families who have lost loved ones before their time.

2024 was a wonderful year in terms of the number new poultry keepers it generated. We have also sourced some exciting new breeds which have been growing in order to breed in 2025. 2024 was the year of no Black Rock or Brown Rock as they were impossible to get hold of. We believe they will become more available this year.

We are open and have a limited selection of hens at point of lay as at 5th January 2025. This will increase as the year progresses so please visit our current stock post or ask us on our contact form.

Our planned breeds for this year

  • Lavender Leghorn
  • Salmon Faverolles
  • Black Rock
  • Brown Rock
  • Opal Legbar
  • Swedish Flower Hens
  • USA Silkies
  • Hyline Brown hybrids
  • Prices range from £11.50 at day old up to £45 for our point of lay birds.

Happy New Year Read More »

Hedgerow Henporium whatsApp community group

Hedgerow Henporium now has a WhatsApp community: https://chat.whatsapp.com/E6KqRoy8rZgFuupM9DDojC

I have set up a Whatsapp community group for chicken keepers. If you would like to join me and other chicken keepers then click on the link to set yourself up. You can ask for advice on chicken care or indeed anything else chicken related and someone will offer help.

See you on the other side.

Julie

Hedgerow Henporium whatsApp community group Read More »

Choosing a Chicken

Colourful egg basket

Choosing The Right chicken

How to choose a chicken is a question that many people ask us. This is a huge topic. There are many many different breeds of chicken – over 300 in face, and within those breeds there are many colour variations. For example: the Sussex chicken, comes in white, coronation, red, speckled, light, buff and silver. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder because not all hens are brown. It is nice to get a variety of hens for your garden flock, either to be able to tell them apart or just for interest. Garden hens don’t need to be kept in flocks of the same type or colour. Chickens are not focussed on colour or breed differences. Their society is much more complex than that but at the same time, refreshingly simple.

Our advice is always this:- choose your chicken based on what you like the look of. Almost all chickens will lay eggs, some more than others. Egg numbers depends on the breeding, age, health status and the time of year. Show chickens tend to lay less because they have been selected for breeding based on beauty, not egg numbers.

Which is the best chicken for children?

This topic has potential to be a can of worms. The quick answer is most chickens will be happy around children, but not all children are suitable around chickens. Thorny issue in some parents eyes. So, look at it from a chickens’ point of view. They are a prey animal, and as such they are always on high alert for anything which may consider them an easy meal. This is common for most birds. An ever vigilant bird will feel anxious if there is unknown noise or behaviour coming from another creature or object in their territory. Their first thought is going to be “is this thing a threat”? If a child dashes over to the chicken, invading its’ space then it is surely going to answer that question with a resounding YES and act accordingly.

With that in mind a child (or adult) needs to learn to work to gain the trust of the bird, and only then, will it allow close and trusting contact. A word of warning: if that trust is pushed beyond a boundary or the trust is abused then it is very unlikely to be recovered. Chickens don’t forgive and they don’t forget. Their lives often depend on those lessons which is why they are set in stone.

Will a chicken peck my children

Chickens have no teeth. They only have a beak which is quite pointed. These creatures do not normally attack anything unless they feel very threatened. You can hand-feed a chicken quite safely, although a young chicken (like most children) does not always have the finesse to do it gently. This is very apparent if they have trust issues as they rush to take the food, rather than taking their time. They have pin-point accuracy when taking food from a hand and are going for the food, not the skin of the hand. A tap on the hand however can be upsetting for a child.

Which hens lay the most eggs

It is all too easy to get hung up on doing your research on how many eggs a hen will produce. Choosing a chicken this way comes under the banner of “how long is a piece of string”. Sure, a commercial hybrid such as a Warren or a Hy-line brown will lay an egg virtually every day but they will only do so up to the age of about 72 weeks. After that you will get a very diminishing return. A pure breed will lay fewer eggs, but over their laying lifetime, they could well lay the same number in total but over a longer period. It’s horses for courses. Hybrids will generally live fast die young, but pure breeds are more slow and steady wins the race.

We actually think that the value of a chicken is worth much more than just what they produce. They have hidden depths which are revealed to their lucky keepers as time goes by. Eggs are exceedingly fresh, very delicious and exciting to receive as a gift from your hens, but it will eventually dawn on you that hens are way more than just a quirky garden ornament. Choosing the right chicken for you is a matter of personal preference.

A chicken can be summed up as

  • Friendly
  • Interactive
  • Interested in you
  • Accepting of affection
  • Therapy
  • Provider of purpose to lost souls
  • Provider of the most delicious eggs
  • Companions
  • Education
  • Ambassadors for all bird-kind
  • Garden designers extraordinaire
  • Source of mirth and joy
  • Huntresses
  • Intelligent
  • Beautiful

This is a very concise list but I could go on and on, but I will leave that up to you. Once you have discovered the joy of chicken keeping, you will be able to compile your own list. Some of the items on my list will I am sure find their way onto your list too.

Choosing a Chicken Read More »

Avian Influenza (Bird Flu) latest 2025 from APHA

Virus Picture

Avian Influenza Official Guidance from APHA

There is a lot of confusing misinformation about Avian Influenza and what you must do and what is allowed or not allowed. This page is intended to clarify the situation.

LATEST IMPORTANT UPDATE!!!!! MOST OF THE uk NOW HAS A MANDATORY BIOSECURITY REQUIREMENT. sOME AREAS HOWEVER ARE IN FULL LOCKDOWN. cHECK THE DEFRA/APHA WEBSITE FOR THE LATEST POSITION.

The list below are the current areas subject to the housing order as at 16th February 2025. All other areas in England are strict biosecurity only unless upgraded to a protection or surveillance zone following an outbreak. Check your text messages for latest news from APHA.

  • Cheshire
  • City of Kingston Upon Hull
  • Herefordshire
  • East Riding of Yorkshire
  • Lancashire
  • Lincolnshire
  • Merseyside
  • Norfolk
  • North Yorkshire
  • Shropshire
  • Suffolk
  • Worcestershire
  • York

Avian Influenza season during the winter and spring months is likely to be the norm. There have been several H5N1 infection clusters in many parts of the country. Keep in mind when planning your chicken areas, that you will have to keep them covered in a lockdown/housing order situation. Further information from APHA on preventing the risk from Avian Influenza can be found at this link. This link shows a map of where the current bird flu cases have been. There is guidance on the APHA site here.

What does a housing order mean?

When there is a housing order in force, then it means all captive birds have to be kept under cover either with a roof or a suitable net which does not allow small birds to enter or foul the ground. Strict biosecurity measures are also required to help minimise the risk of infection spreading. This applies to all bird keepers in England, Scotland and Wales, whether birds are kept commercially or as pets, regardless of whatever type or size. These measures include cleansing and disinfecting clothing, footwear and equipment, reducing the movement of people to and from areas, and preventing access by poultry to ponds and watercourses. Failure to adhere to the housing order means you face a very large fine and possible imprisonment if you are found out.

Bird flu biosecurity recommendations (this is good practice regardless of a lockdown)

  1. Keep ALL birds indoors or under cover with either a roof or small holed nets to exclude wild birds and vermin. This becomes compulsory whenever a housing order is declared
  2. Ensure that you feed and water your birds in an area that wild birds and vermin cannot contaminate either by drinking or droppings
  3. Prevent visitors to the area the birds are in
  4. Make any ponds and boggy areas out of bounds to your birds and other wild birds
  5. Don’t encourage wild birds onto your property by feeding them
  6. Enhance your biosecurity by using a DEFRA APPROVED disinfectant foot dip at all entrances if possible. Clean boots and clothing are advised. Hard paved area to be disinfected also.
  7. Keep waterfowl (ducks, geese etc) separated from other poultry as the risk to waterfowl is greater.
  8. Always wash your hands thoroughly after dealing with poultry and make sure that you don’t put your hands near your mouth at any time.

The Food Standards Agency are also offering reassurance that bird flu will not pose a food safety risk for UK consumers. The eating of Poultry products and eating eggs are safe.

What happens following a local outbreak

If avian influenza infection is suspected at a given location, then all birds are evaluated by a vet. On confirmation of disease then all the birds on the site are subjected to a humane cull order. There can be no “get out of jail free card” to play here however – all birds die.

Temporary no-movement zones are then created around ground zero. Once the final tests come back and their strain is identified, the following zones are declared. Severe movement restrictions are put in place in the active Protection Zones and active Surveillance Zones. No movement of birds in, or out, or within etc. Surveillance zones are in place for about a month, but checking on the APHA website or viewing the interactive map will give you the current picture. Rules then revert to Prevention zone rules when the active zones are no longer in the active state.

BIRD FLU IS A NOTIFIABLE DISEASE so it is an offence to not report it. Contact details to report suspected possible cases are on the DEFRA/APHA website or contact your vet.

Not all outbreaks are from commercial poultry outfits

The biggest numbers of actual birds in enforced humane cullings have been in commercial units but there have been just as many infected “premises” from hobby keepers too. Many people are blaming the commercial poultry units for the spread however this is not the whole story. So everyone needs to do their bit to protect all birds. The Farne Islands were subjected to a massive cull because of Avian Influenza with many wild birds such as Puffins having huge dents in their numbers. It is feared that many species will find it difficult to recover from such enormous losses.

Can you still buy birds when there is a housing order?

Yes you can BUT ONLY IF THE BIRDS ARE NOT MOVED TO/FROM/OR WITHIN A CURRENTLY ACTIVE SURVEILLANCE ZONE. See the heading below for the interactive map to check whether you as buyer or the seller are outside an active zone. There are some situations where movement is allowed in an active zone BUT ONLY UNDER A LICENCE OBTAINED BEFOREHAND. If you were to want to buy chickens from us, we would check beforehand if you are allowed. All our sales are recorded for traceability if we are asked.

DEFINITIONS of Avian Influenza Declared Zones

Zone NameDescription of Zone
Protection ZoneA zone at a 3km radius from round the site of an infection – Movement restrictions apply. No birds moved in out or within this zone. Current map of infections and zone status here
Surveillance ZoneA wider zone of 10km radius from around the site of an infection – Movement restrictions apply. No birds moved in out or within this zone.
Prevention Zone AIPZRefers to the rest of the country not in any active Protection or Surveillance Zones. Bird gatherings may be banned but movements are allowed only in this zone. England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales all issue their own terms (do’s and don’ts) on this.
Increased BiosecurityRequired legally by all areas of the country.
Housing OrderAll birds must be housed under cover or a roof or nets to exclude wild birds and vermin. No contact to be possible between any other animal and the poultry or the ground they have access to. The Govt website gives the latest case location updates or you can sign up to the notification service detailed below. Notifications can be delivered to you either by email or text as you specify once you sign up. See link below

The paragraph below is a direct quote from the Governments Notification system

What You Can Do for the Future

It is becoming a yearly phenomenon to endure Bird Flu lockdowns so if you wish to continue to keep poultry, your best options are to make sure you are ready. Plan well ahead to make your chicken’s area secure, big enough, and welfare friendly for any future declarations. Being pre-prepared is the best that you can do because this will make the restrictions easier on you and your birds each year.

Previously Avian Influenza was just thought of as being a seasonal risk due to migration patterns, but the feeling now is deemed to be endemic. This means that there is now a reservoir of infection carried by our own native birds who may not always show signs of disease. This reservoir can then be a continued risk which may be year round. The risk to our native bird populations could have disastrous consequences for their future survival.

Latest Situation

Regardless of what this page says, you should still refer to this Govt website for the very latest position. Advice lines and reporting numbers are also on the page. Wales and Scotland or Northern Ireland have their own rules so you should contact their websites for the latest info.

In Scotland, Wales or Northern Ireland you should contact your local APHA office. Again the contact numbers are on the link above.

Avian Influenza current infections Nov 2022
The scale of the problem as at 15/11/2022. This is ONLY an example of what you will see on the interactive map (link below).

Register your UK flock – This Is Now Compulsory

As of 1st October 2024 the Government have made it a legal requirement that everyone MUST sign up to the free poultry register. It is compulsory if you have even 1 bird as a pet. Poultry includes chickens, pheasants and other gamebirds, geese, ducks, turkeys and other waterfowl.The links to the forms are here There is no intrusion or hoops to jump through which is helpful. Registration is not needed for birds that never go outside such as parrots, budgies etc. Note that you only need a CPH number if you keep 50 or more in total. Less than 50 will not need a CPH number to register.

Reporting Cases of Dead Birds

Bird flu is a notifiable disease. If you suspect a bird with having bird flu you can report it to APHA on 03000 200 301 if you’re in England

03003 038 268 if you’re in Wales

your local Field Services Office if you’re in Scotland

Any cases of wild bird deaths should be reported to a local Vet or RSPB in the first instance. APHA are primarily interested in kept birds rather than wild birds. You can also report dead wild birds online

Symptoms of Avian Influenza

There are 2 types of avian influenza.

Highly pathogenic avian influenza (HPAI)

This is the more serious type which is often fatal in birds. The main clinical signs of HPAI in birds are:

  • swollen head
  • blue discolouration of neck and throat
  • loss of appetite
  • respiratory distress such as gaping beak, coughing, sneezing, gurgling, rattling
  • diarrhoea
  • fewer eggs laid
  • increased mortality

Clinical signs can vary between species of bird and some species (for example ducks and geese) may show minimal clinical signs.

Low pathogenic avian influenza (LPAI)

LPAI is usually less serious but it can cause mild breathing problems, however affected birds will not always show clear signs of infection.

The severity of LPAI depends on the type of bird and also whether it has any other illnesses.

Interactive Map of the current bird flu situation

An interactive map is also here to show you where there are infections and also where tighter restrictions are in place at the moment Interactive map click here

Wild bird cases in the UK

The interactive map doesn’t take account of wild bird confirmed cases of Avian Influenza but they are still being recorded. The 2021-22 numbers were massive and although the majority are waterfowl there are also birds of prey and some garden birds. There is the possibility that smaller garden type birds have been “tidied up” by other animals or other bird eating species or even flies. The garden birds have only been found in small numbers but fly activity can clear a corpse in days which would make them difficult to spot.

Webinar giving Vet guidance on Bird flu

DEFRA/APHA have produced a recording of a webinar to give more advice on why it is important to follow the rules. It has loads of useful info albeit related to winter of 2021/2022. The advice and information is still very relevant. Find the webinar here There are versions for both commercial and home based flocks.

Sign up now for the free alerts service

The government has a free alerts service where they send you a text message or an email with the latest avian influenza news so you know when you are clear or otherwise. It is very useful service. All you need to do is give an email address or a mobile number for either an email or a text message alert.
Sign up here it only takes a minute.

Not just a UK problem

See the map below to see how widespread the infections are, because as you see, the UK is not alone. Many countries are struggling to gain control. Economic losses are huge for the major producers and exporters who have been prevented from carrying on their normal trading.

avian Influenza info from Overseas

The CDC in the USA (Centre for Disease Control) has extensive information on the types of influenza. It also gives statistics on the human cases worldwide and the risk factors. If you are keen to know more then it is a good resource.

Avian Influenza (Bird Flu) latest 2025 from APHA Read More »

Heat stress in Chickens

Sick chicken in bed

Heat Stress….Is it a thing?

Heat stress in chickens is one of the major factors in illness, death and egg production failures. Chickens can cope very well in temperatures just over zero degrees centigrade, however, adding chickens to heat is a whole new ball game.

Why is a bit of heat a problem?

  • Chickens are covered in their own feather duvet
  • Their natural temperature is 41 degrees C
  • They cannot sweat to cool down

Heat stress can result in collapse, lack of eggs, stress related moult, neurological issues, organ failure, and death. It can happen suddenly which leaves you the keeper wondering why on earth it has happened.

Symptoms of heat stress

The danger period happens once the temperature rises to above 22 degrees C and above. It is worse on days when there is no wind. If you spot any of the symptoms below then you need to act VERY quickly

  • The birds will start to seek out shade.
  • They will start to hold their wings away from their bodies if they are too hot to lose heat
  • Chickens will start to pant.
  • Slow panting at first, followed by quick panting and throat fluttering as the risk increases.
  • Chickens may start to show neurological symptoms such as throwing their heads back or circling
  • They could go off their legs all of a sudden
  • Egg production will reduce or cease entirely
  • You may see an abnormal amount of feather loss in chickens, usually around the neck or crop area.

Fast panting sets off a dangerous chain reaction. It changes the chemical composition in the body and respiratory system which in turn puts pressure on organs such as the brain and kidneys. Heat stress is cumulative, which means the problems build up over time, getting ever serious.

The Solution to heat stress in chickens

Electrolytes are extremely important to supplement in the water when the temperature gets over 22C which assists the birds with replacing lost vital salts. A poultry supplement such as “Solulyte” which is designed to combat heat stress is essential. It is wise to have this on standby for the summer. I have linked to a website, but there are many suppliers who do the same product with varying sizes etc. Supplementing with Solulyte will save the life and health of your chickens during prolonged heatwave situations. Alternatively you can Google a recipe for poultry electrolytes for a home-made fix. You may need to keep the bird cool and encourage them to drink by dipping their beak. Neurological or collapse symptoms will mean they are confused and may become unresponsive, so they need assistance to drink.

Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for chickens

  • 4.5 Litres of water (1 gallon)
  • 1 tablespoon of sugar
  • 1 teaspoon of baking soda/bicarbonate of soda
  • 1 teaspoon of salt (sea salt preferably)
  • Splash of orange juice (optional for vitamin C or crush a vitamin C tablet)

Mix together and then serve to your chickens.

Warning

Don’t use this if there is no danger of heat stress. Chickens will pant when they are heat stressed. YOUR BIRDS SHOULD NOT HAVE SALT OR SUGAR IN THEIR WATER UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS.

Heat stress in Chickens Read More »

Mud Management

Man rolling in mud

Mud Management for chickens

Mud Mud Glorious Mud as the song goes is something that a lot of chicken keepers end up with. The problem with chickens is that they are the worlds most committed excavators. They will dig and scrape looking for tasty morsels in the ground. If you have some precious plants, or that lovely rose that dear departed Auntie May gave you, then you will need to protect the roots from the attentions of your chickens. Chickens will uproot almost everything they find, apart from nettles and brambles annoyingly. Such is their dedication to extreme garden remodelling.

It’s not all bad

The ground your chickens’ run sits on will become a moonscape of barren earth in a short space of time. They quickly create dust-bathing pot-holes and they fervently dig for insects, worms and other goodies. However, there is a plus side. If you have some ground you need clearing, veg plot, allotment, jungle, greenhouse, then team chicken are the ones to call. Add chickens to any unruly wilderness and you will have ground clearance par excellance. Sit back with your cup of tea and watch diligence in motion.

Why does it turn into mud and why is it a problem?

Chickens’ feet are also great at padding the ground and compacting it despite not being very heavy creatures. The combination of compaction, and lack of greenery means the soil now won’t be able to soak up any water without a bit of help. Surface water creates mud, thick, gooey, welly sucking mud. Mud is great at growing nasty bacteria and other pathogens as pathogens just love moisture. Pathogens make smells to add insult to injury.

So now we have a job description of chicken destruction, we now need to find a solution.

One Solution

So how do you stop mud in a chicken run? You could do some sort of rain dance but this will certainly entertain your neighbours. The top and bottom of it is your run or the chicken area needs to remain dry. Dry earth is less likely to harbour or grow nasties that will harm the health of your chickens. Compacted earth doesn’t allow the rain to soak in so digging the area over will keep the drainage good. It also gives the microbes in the soil some much needed air. Microbes in the soil are your friends, so keep them alive. This in combination with a roof covering is going to make it a winner all round.

If you tackle the mud issue then you will have a nicer area for everyone. No smells, no disease and no slipping in mud.

Voila!

So there we have it!!! Microbes are your friend and chickens will uproot anything that is remotely green, even poisonous plants. Who’da thought it? It didn’t take us long to realise that the chickens had to have their own area, so segregate them. You get your own garden and the chickens can have theirs. That is where sanity lives but because I am a chicken nut our human area is very small because the girls just gotta have fun.

We have much more information on this very topic on our online course and also many more useful nuggets of useful info if you wish to know more

Mud Management Read More »

Hazards of Backyard Hens

I saw this youtube video a number of years ago and I still find it really funny. I highly recommend you take a peek because it just sums up the hazards of backyard hen keeping quite well.

If you don’t already keep chickens then it is not meant to put you off but it does give a fine example of the way chicken keeping is very addictive. This is for all chicken addicts out there. Enjoy

Hazards of Backyard Hens Read More »

Incubator Hire News

Brahma garden hen

An incubator hire story

Early in March 2019 we had an incubator hired out at Wirral Hospice St John’s in Bebington. I was a bit apprehensive to take it to somewhere that I felt might be quite a gloomy place given the massive healthcare issues the patients face. I could not have been more wrong. It is fair to say that they became ever so excited to witness the hatching of their eggs. Work stopped in favour of egg watching, you can feel the excitement in the air. The hot topic amongst patients and staff alike is not medical – it’s eggs and it’s chicks. The last thing on the patients’ minds was medical matters. They definitely are in the grips of chicken fever.

Hatching begins

On Monday 12th March the 21st day of the incubator hire period, the first chicks emerged to greet the world. But the rest are still to hatch so the incubator must remain closed to make sure that the humidity remains constant.

Conserving humidity

The way an egg incubator works is you need to wait until all the eggs have hatched before you can open it up to get at the chicks because otherwise you lose the humidity. Chicks need the humidity to keep their shell membranes soft so they can break through them. Moisture laden air also assists the chick so it is able to spin inside the egg to unzip the top by creating a crack all the way round to make an escape hatch. Any remaining egg yolk is absorbed by the chick into its body before hatching and they live off it for the first 48 hours. The early birds are safe to remain in the incubator until the rest of the batch of eggs catches up.

And there’s more!

A day later passes and another 4 chicks have hatched. The brooder has been delivered and installed and there was a rush of staff to the incubation site so they could get their first experience of handling a bundle of cute fluffiness. There is much distraction around, staff making excuses to just have a peek on their way to another task. Patients with families and friends ogling the little tweeting fluffballs and a real sense of pride that they have produced their own little creatures. The incubator hire was a winner in more ways than one.

Therapeutic benefits of chickens

From what I have seen in care situations, chicks bring a sense of new beginnings. This is true for the elderly or the lonely or those who are very sick or dementia sufferers. They bring a real joy to those who witness it. It is something that I never tire of. It is no wonder that care institutions are bringing hens in as therapy. They are a source of chatter, where once there was none, and a thrill of excitement where there was numbness or loneliness. A humble chicken can provide a sense of being needed and of purpose. This is the superpower of a creature that seems to know exactly the right things to say to make all other problems seem to melt into the background. Chickens bring a feeling of well-being, cooperation and togetherness to all those involved in their care – such is their magic.

If you need convincing watch this video by equalarts.co.uk View our incubator hire packages here

The Hen Men from Equal Arts on Vimeo.

Coops for the less mobile

We have just started to stock these coops called Henlays Chicken Coops. They are easy to clean because there is no stooping or bending needed to make sure they are clean. We think they suit the needs of a care/medical/support organisation more than any other coop we have yet seen. Check this page for more info or view the specifics on our shop page

Spread the love

If you know of someone or somewhere that can benefit from the therapeutic benefits of these bridge-building creatures please ask us to see if we can assist you get up and running via our contact page. They don’t call them a gateway livestock for nothing.

Incubator Hire News Read More »

Feather Pecking

Cockerel with feather pecking damage
Example of signs of feather pecking behaviour

Feather pecking is a potentially serious issue in chickens. At best it can look rather scruffy, but at worst it can result in chicken death. Take a look at Peter Pecker in the photo. Notice his cream coloured feathers (his saddle) have v-shaped tips. This is classic feather pecking behaviour. This feather pattern of plucking is known as barbering.

The hens in his flock are being over attentive and because he is a kindly cockerel, he is letting them do it. He sees it as a mutual preening exercise which is a normal type of behaviour in birds. They often preen each other as it cements their bonds, however this can continue to a destructive level. Eventually the barbering gets closer and closer to the skin and if it does not stop, then it becomes a feather pecking habit. Chickens will then start to attack the pin or blood feathers as they are starting to poke through the skin. This will draw blood and blood is bad. Chickens then begin to actively hunt feathers especially those of chickens that are lower down the pecking order. They do not know when to stop when they start to draw blood and it can turn fatal.

The reasons behind feather pecking are complex and not well understood. Some people believe that the hens realise they have a deficiency in protein and eat feathers to make up the deficit. Others think it is a boredom or a stress response. In parrots that is surely the reason but is it still the case for chickens? There could be a similarity for sure. Allo preening (bird mutual preening) is a bonding and very natural behaviour so we may be just guessing. It is all too easy to attach human emotions and reasons behind animal behaviour. At the end of the day we can only make assumptions but not know for sure.

One thing is for sure, when the birds are in a moulting period and every bird is in the same state of undress then they actually (mostly) leave each other alone and stop the feather pecking to allow the feathers to re-grow. Maybe it is more to do with the heightened stress of hormone surges during the peak laying and fertility periods of spring and summer.

Feather Pecking Read More »

Day-old Chicks

Newly hatched chicks

Day old chicks need special care

Looking after day-old chicken chicks is a rewarding experience for everyone, no matter their age. However, there are some things that needs to be in place before you contemplate looking after dayold chicks in your home.

The list below is considerations that need to be addressed BEFORE embarking on this exciting adventure.

  • Day old chicks are delicate and can easily die
  • Young chicks need a heat source in their first weeks
  • Day-old chicks can drown in a water source
  • Baby chicks need to be kept indoors for at least 3 weeks in summer
  • They must be indoors for longer when the weather is cold
  • Chicks need cleaning out regularly otherwise they will smell
  • Raising young chicks indoors creates massive amounts of heavy dust from their feathers. This can cause breathing issues in sensitive individuals
  • Most non-hybrid dayold chicks cannot be sexed accurately until they are 6-8 weeks old
  • Unsexed means there is a risk that you will get cockerels which can cause neighbour issues
  • Most important if we have sold them unsexed we cannot take the boys back due to a biosecurity risk for our stock.

All our day-old chicks get sent to their new homes with a full care sheet. The minimum needs are listed below.

  1. Brooder to contain the dayolds. Rabbit or hamster cage. They MUST NOT go outside in a coop till they are at least 3 weeks old in warm weather. This will be longer in cold weather.
  2. Water dish or drinker, which should be shallow initially
  3. Food dish or specific feeder with chick crumb constantly available
  4. Warmth minimum 28C for the first week which can be reduced as they feather up. Suitable heat sources are electric hens, reptile heat mats or heat lamps. Bear in mind a possible fire risk from unsuitable equipment
  5. Safety from other animals including and ESPECIALLY OTHER CHICKENS
  6. Companion of other day old chicks because a solitary chick is very noisy indeed

Finally please don’t ask us for young chicks if you have no equipment ready we will not sell them to you.

Warning!!!

Don’t expect that a broody hen will take on the day-old chicks you present her with. Always have a backup plan. Broodies can be remarkably fickle, moody and dangerous. Unless a hen is showing clear signs of being very broody then she will NOT look after chicks. She will more than likely try to kill them. If she has not looked after young chicks before then please supervise any introductions and be prepared to intervene quickly if she decides to attack the chicks. A swift angry peck to the head of the chick can render them unconscious or severely bruised. A normal broody/chick communication is a gentle tap to the head. This is the broody telling the chick to pay attention to what she is telling it. If she sounds angry then she is, so watch very carefully. More info on broody hens here

Further information on keeping chicks

Further information if you want to hatch your own chickens is on our online course we have produced just for this. We recommend taking it to get you up to speed quickly. Chicks deserve the best start in life and good information can be a lifesaver.

Day-old Chicks Read More »

Fox Proofing

Wiley Fox Close up of head

Fox Proofing to protect your chickens

Fox proofing MUST be your primary focus when you design your chicken accommodation. You must learn how to protect your chickens from foxes.

Foxes have a very bad press, but it’s well deserved. They are are probably quite misunderstood. We are not fans of foxes except they are beautiful creatures and have a purpose in the great scheme of nature to keep the balance right as a top predator.

With this in mind, the first thing you should do beyond all else is foxproofing, foxproofing, foxproofing. If you don’t attend to this then your beloved chickens will be on the take-away menu of any resident fox in your area. It upsets us enormously when we hear that chickens have been taken due to foxproofing errors.

Please know that foxes will prowl at all hours of the day and night. They can also snatch your birds at a moment’s notice, even if you are around.

Foxes are indiscriminate killers aren’t they?

Foxes are actually misunderstood. Most people are of the opinion that foxes kill for fun. The reason they think this is that when a fox attacks, he will kill everything living in sight. Foxes like all other creatures only kill for survival. Yes it appears indiscriminate, but they do have a cunning plan.

Whenever we humans think the shops are shut we will tend to fill our freezers, fridges and cupboards almost like the world is coming to an end. The fox has the same mentality. When food is plentiful, ie you have presented your lovely chickens to the fox on a plate then he is thinking that “I don’t know when I am going to get the opportunity to eat again so I will stockpile or cache the goods”. The equivalent of us going to do our Christmas shopping. We don’t need the amount of food we buy, but we buy it just in case we get a mountain of visitors or a two day holocaust. While food is easily available, he is going to fill his cache with goodies.

A fox only has one mouth and he can only carry one at a time. By which time we have discovered his fowl deed (pun intended) and have gotten rather upset and therefore have tidied up. Mr Renard is fully expecting to keep coming back and bury your unfortunate chickens for lean times ahead.

Any hens that have been fortunate enough to escape the jaws of death, will be severely traumatised, or severely mauled. The blood-curdling screams of panicking hens when faced with a predator is not a sound you will forget in a hurry.

So how do you fox-proof?

Any physical barriers you can place in the way for fox proofing the better. Firstly CHICKEN WIRE OR RABBIT WIRE IS NOT FOX-PROOF. Even if you double it up. It is only chicken-proof and is intended to keep chickens in. Chicken wire is defeated by a fox like a hot knife through butter.

Bury the wire at least 1 foot deep into the ground and also splay it out at right angles to your run sides along the ground the make a physical barrier to exclude Mr Fox. Paving slabs can be placed round the edge to make another no dig zone. Don’t forget the doorway or the roof. The more barriers you have, the better.

Make sure your nest box lids are well attached and securely bolted. Don’t neglect the underside of your coop or nestbox which is often used as an access point. These are rarely screwed securely. Slide out droppings trays are also an easy target for a hungry predator. Rooves should be well fitting and secure. Mesh should cover any ventilation points to exclude vermin. Most cheap wooden coops are not fox-proof or badger proof. Coops can easily tip over. Mr Fox knows this. He is wiley, strong and very persistent. Mr badger is immensely strong and can rip the side off a thin wooden coop like it was tin foil.

Always close your coop at night. Get an automatic door on your coop if you are leaving it open to avoid the need for an early morning visit. Leaving the chicken coop door open is not worth the risk. Chickenguards are worth their weight in gold and we sell these in our shop.

Materials used in fox-proofing

Weld-mesh with a minimum gauge of 16 and a small aperture. Two inch by two inch is not good enough. Foxes can get their mouths into that space and use it to overcome the barrier. A 1 inch mesh or smaller is better. Rats can get through 1 inch square mesh so a smaller space will exclude rats, and mink, stoat, pine marten, badgers and weasels also. These predators are all partial to a bit of takeaway chicken too. Weld-mesh is measured in gauges. The larger the gauge number the thinner the wire. 16g is better and stronger than 19g. It is also more expensive, but the alternative is also an expensive lesson to learn. It is expensive in money terms, and emotional terms so why allow it to happen?

An excellent preventative obstacle is an electric chicken fence. The fencer or energiser (the thing that supplies the electric current) has to be powerful enough to zap any vegetation. Vegetation can weaken the current the fencer is supplying and make the difference between a startling jolt and a slight tickle for a resourceful hungry fox especially one with a load of cubs to feed in spring. A guide for installing an electric fence for chickens is here. If you want information on what electric fence to choose, there is a complete guide here

What to guard against

Foxes can climb trees. They are excellent jumpers, easily clearing a 6 foot fence. Think of a fox with the power of a dog and the agility of a cat. Foxes and badgers are formidable diggers so don’t assume you are safe if you have not made the perimeter fox-proof and secure. Please remember that the fox or badger only has to be lucky once, and that you have to be lucky every time. In the picture below, this fox visits every day.

Fox Proofing Read More »

Waiting List

Waiting List Image

Waiting List Information

Our waiting list is a Brevo list whereby we can send an email to all our waiting list subscribers who would like to know as soon as we have some chickens for sale. You can find the waiting list option on our contact form here

HOT NEWS

We have plenty of stock at the moment of all ages so the waiting list is not needed. Please contact us if you wish to purchase hens via our contact form or call us on 01244-/646/026

WE HAVE BEEN INCUBATING IN 2024 SINCE APRIL AND WE HAVE SOME STOCK READY TO GO

Wrapped up chicken
A chicken is the gift that keeps on giving

Avian Influenza

Many years of lockdowns due to Avian Influenza has meant that a growing number of breeders will keep their stock very low again over the 2024/2025 winter period. Feed prices have sky-rocketed, therefore both events will take their toll on general chicken supply. In response to the almost weekly rising price of feed, many poultry breeders are cutting their losses and reducing their breeding flocks. Demand is brisk but mainly for point of lay birds which obviously take some time to grow.

This year 2024

So far in 2024 we have been getting NO deliveries of Black Rocks from the Muirfield Layers hatchery in Scotland. We also cannot supply a Brown Rock which is a Rhode Island Red over Light Sussex resulting in a brown chicken with a black tail. We are hatching as fast as our incubators allow so there is usually something we can offer you. Give us a call on O1244646O26 to find out what is available or to ask any questions.

How old are chickens when we sell them?

Chicks are sold whenever people want them. Unsexed chicks are available from day old. (There is a risk that they could be cockerels so please bear that in mind). We can determine the sex of our chicks at 6-8 weeks old and we offer a hen guarantee with those. Any that turn out to be boys will be swapped in line with our guarantee. We don’t swap boys when we have specifically sold them as unsexed. If you are looking for hens (albeit rather cute youngsters) then take a look at our latest stock post. We update our availability here on our blog page. We will be having Swedish Flower Hens, and Salmon Faverolles. Hyline Brown hybrids will be available at some stage during year. We also have “guest” hatchings of breeds such as Cream Legbar, or Marans from time to time.

Essential things to do while you are waiting

Research the Care Requirements by joining our Instant Access Online Course

While you are on our waiting list, you may wish to research some good chicken husbandry minimum requirements. Chickens don’t require much but they do require the correct care to enable them to lay well and remain healthy. Get a jump start in your chicken knowledge by looking into doing our online Chicken Keeping Course. The course can also make you realise that perhaps chicken keeping is not for you once you have more knowledge on the subject. This is a two edged sword because if your heart isn’t in it, you will have wasted money on setting yourself up to no avail if you decide at a later date that it doesn’t fit into your lifestyle. Either way it is money well spent.

Day Old and Young Chick Care Research

If you are looking for day old chicks or young chicks then it is very wise (essential) to consult our blog article on the care needs of these more delicate creatures. We will be asking for proof of your preparedness. It you don’t get the conditions right to look after young chicks, they will die. We have another course running on incubating and rearing chicks if you want to start from scratch.

Horror Stories

It is coming to our attention that some people are of the opinion that they can just dump chickens in the garden and they will stroll around popping out some eggs every day. Chickens require housing for safety and also some weather protection. We have been hearing of people feeding them on old bread and left-over takeaway rubbish. Their welfare needs to be high priority so this is quite shocking. Chickens need to be fed well with a diet that is properly formulated and best suited for avian digestive systems. They are not feathery dustbins. Feeding them household scraps is not legally allowed and is certainly not going to give them a diet which will allow them to be their most productive or healthy. Based on the saying rubbish in, rubbish out; with hens it is definitely rubbish in, nothing out.

Attend to Foxproofing as high priority

Most important is how to avoid your new hens from becoming a convenient take-away snack for a hungry fox or badger. Check out our chicken foxproofing post for tips to safeguard your chickens

Avian Influenza Current Information

We have a blog page devoted to the current regulations relating to Avian Influenza which had raised its head again in the winters of 2020/2023 in the UK. Make sure you are up to date with what you MUST do to comply with the current laws. There are unlimited fines and probably imprisonment for those not heeding the requirements.

How to get notified of new stock

Please use our Contact page to be added to our waiting list. Tick the waiting list option along with the “opt-in” to give us permission to contact you. Our mailing lists, which are infrequent, have an easy unsubscribe link to unsubscribe at any time. We do not wish to annoy you by emailing you unnecessarily. Please know that we take your privacy very seriously and will not spam you without permission. As we say, spam is for fritters and we hate fritters.

Update your Chicken Coop equipment

We are now stocking fabulous coops called Henlays Roost which are easy to clean and are easy to manage from a Red Mite eradication perspective. If you need to have a lie-in in the morning instead of living in “chicken-time” then invest in a Chickenguard. This will let your chickens out at a time of your choosing so you don’t have to rise with the lark at stupid o’clock. It will also shut them away safely at night thus rushing back to close your coop is now a thing of the past. We now have Chickenguard for sale on our web shop. Nestera Coops (previously Green Frog Designs) have approached us and we are happy to be providing these coops also in the very near future.

Waiting List Read More »

Chicken Maths = How many chickens?

Chickens ready for sale

Today I spent a good few hours rearranging all my pens to keep the age groups in one place. I have chickens all over the place so it was time to make it more organised. As some pens become empty I move them around to make the best use of the space.

Well after I caught them up, they ran off, so I caught them again. They didn’t like their new pen because it was obviously a very scary place. So inconsiderate! Considering I spent ages digging in some lime to disinfect the area. It also rearranged my hair as I got it caught in the netting. Dragged through a hedge backwards is a recurring theme for my hairstyle these days. They then made a bolt for the door every time I brought another 2 over. I don’t know about them, but I found it quite stressful. It certainly increased my step count for the day according to my fitness phone app so not all bad!!

When I finally finished I took a picture so I could see what I had and which colour mixes I had. This is not the only batch of chickens I have either so I might have to give myself a stern talking to.

These are now ready to go to their new homes. We have Brahma in Pyle, and Buff Columbian. We have some Orpingtons in Lavender and some Swedish Flower Hens Crossed with either Leghorn or Ancona.

That moment when you realise exactly how many chickens you have. Chicken maths – aka chicken addiction – is a real thing, especially here.

For the uninitiated, the term Chicken Maths relates to a Phenomenon (or an excuse) for why numbers of chickens get out of control. It starts off by getting a flock of 3, then because you cannot add a single chicken to an existing flock, you end up with 2 more. If you lose one and need to replace it, you end up with another 2 minimum. And so it goes.

I often get asked how many chickens I have and the answer is invariably “I don’t know”. It is impossible to count chickens for fear of double counting. You would never actually want to suggest the real number because there lies madness. Approximate is the best guess as with all chicken keepers, especially those trying to avoid telling their better half how many they actually have. A guilty pleasure for sure. Sneaking a few more in under the “approximate” banner is always an option.

Chicken Maths = How many chickens? Read More »

Bantams – 8 reasons why we don’t keep them

What is a Bantam

First of all, a bantam is a size of chicken, not a breed. They are divided into true bantams, which includes Pekins, Sebrights, Serema, Dutch and Booted bantams amongst others. True bantams have no large fowl equivalent. Many large fowl do have a bantam equivalent, these are roughly a quarter of the size of the large fowl version. There is a bantam version of Wyandotte, Brahma, Leghorn, Sussex, Rhode Islands, Faverolles, Welsummer, Araucana to name a few.

An interesting fact regarding the Pekin and the Cochin which causes some confusion when viewing Facebook groups which have many nationalities as members. A Cochin has no bantam equivalent, however chicken keepers in the USA call Pekins a Cochin. As ever, the Americans are often at odds with the way we name stuff. A Pekin has no large fowl equivalent.

8 Reasons why we don’t keep bantams

  1. They are a quarter of the size of a regular chicken and they might not mix well in a large fowl flock. Sometimes bantam sized chickens can suffer with bullying when in with the bigger girls.
  2. They can have a “Napoleon Complex” which can actually show aggressive tendencies much bigger than their size in a mixed size flock.
  3. They are usually very broody. Broody hens can be aggressive with other hens and also their keepers. Broody hens won’t lay eggs.
  4. They have repeated attacks of broodiness throughout the year and it’s often difficult to get them over it. Broodies can die from malnutrition or dehydration in particularly warm periods. The broodiest by reputation are Silkies, Goldtops, Pekins and Wyandottes.
  5. Their eggs are too small for your average chuckyegg. They need very small dippy soldiers to fit. Bring on those proper sized eggs!!
  6. They are no more easy to handle than large fowl even for children.
  7. The numbers of eggs are poor because they have repeated bouts of broodiness.
  8. They are more at risk of danger when a cat is involved or larger birds of prey.

We only stock Large Fowl – However……

Large fowl and very large fowl can be just as friendly and cuddly as bantams. The largest chickens are fluff balls which are easy and calm to handle. They are not prone to panic running about as some bantams are. There is nothing standard about a chicken however as they all reserve the right to be individual characters, just like us.

We Relented and we got Silkies – Ahem

It has to be said that we have always had a bit of a downer on Silkies. On a whim I got some USA Silkie hatching eggs with the sole purpose of just selling the chicks. After having kept them, I decided to breed them and now I have a little flock of fluffy nodding Silkies that I actually do like – a lot. I did not expect them to lay very well, but they have laid when none of the rest were laying and I hatched loads. They do have a downside however, they are very easily spooked because they have so much facial fuzz and poor vision. Those small eggs are a deal breaker though but they do have a surprisingly large yolk.

Bantams – 8 reasons why we don’t keep them Read More »

Red Mite season

Red mite clustering in a wooden chicken coop

What is Red Mite

Red Mite is undoubtedly the chicken pest which is absolutely the scourge of all chicken keepers. This evil chicken pest has earned its fearsome reputation. Why? It will hide in the tiniest of teeny tiny crevices, cracks or grooves in your coop by day. By night it will come hunting for a blood meal and your chickens are top choice of menu items.

Red Mite are the size of a full stop so how can they cause harm?

Well, it’s all to do with a numbers game. Red Mite will go from egg to egg laying adult in 7 days especially once the weather starts to warm up. A population explosion of these virtually invisible little ninjas will cause blood loss and death due to anaemia. Not to mention the diseases they carry. They can go dormant without food for months on end, only to reappear with a vengeance once food is available and the temperature increases. This is why you can never be complacent with these horrible little creatures.

So What are the Signs of Red Mite infestation?

The first indication you may notice could be that the chickens themselves tell you.

  • They will stop wanting to go into their coop at night and eggs may be randomly deposited outside.
  • Any eggs that are laid in the nest boxes may have small specs on them.
  • A visit to the coop at night-time will mean that you feel a rather uncomfortable creepy crawling sensation which seems to be caused by an invisible assailant.
  • Your chickens combs may become pale and they may look under the weather. Egg production will suffer – doesn’t it always – due to the stress it causes the ladies.
  • Little white flecks will be seen in and around obstacles. Red Mite discarded skeletons that they have grown out of.
  • Anaemia is a very real threat to their well-being and they can easily die.
  • You may spot piles of grey dust which will move in places like ledges and where perches attach.
  • Check round screws and nuts and bolts for small red dots as red mite cluster in these area most visibly. Open wood grain can also harbour sleeping red mite.

What can you do about Red Mite?

The Red Mite don’t generally live on the hens so treating the coop during day is not the best option as they are hiding inside crevices. Treating the hens themselves is also likely to be ineffective as an Ivermectin type treatment will require that the hens get bitten in order for the treatment to kill. Putting stuff in the water is also of very limited use as again the birds need to be bitten to treat.

Red Mite treatments need to be very proactive and aggressive to win this very serious war. Prevention is most definitely the best course.

The best treatments for Red Mite are nasty.  There is also an inconvenience factor that you can’t treat and put the chickens anywhere near it for about a week after.

Good Solutions

The top product for wooden coops is undoubtedly Creosote. The nasty cancer causing, banned for household use kind. You can get this online. Tame Creocote or Creoseal will not cut the mustard so don’t waste your time or money on this.  Creosote is usually applied yearly but the downside is that it will need to de-stink before you can let your hens have access to the coop again.

Next on the war list is Perbio-Choc or C40WP. Both are residual and will give you protection for approximately 3 months. They are also nasty chemicals in their own right that do require hazmat style protection. Definitely eye, breathing, skin protection for these nasties. Also a de-stink period is needed of about a week. We use Perbio-Choc combined with a smoke bomb beforehand. We also recommend Pest Expert Formula C+ which is residual up to 12 weeks. All the residual treatments with the exception of Creosote you can soak the coop EVERYWHERE (very important) and leave it to do its job. Don’t wash your coop or dust your coop after treatment otherwise you are just wasting your money and precious time.

Spray solutions in aerosol cans are a reasonable solution. Indorex, Columbine spray, Ardap spray, or even ant killer are all residual. These can work out more costly in the long run, but are quick and easy to use. They are also easy to get hold of.

We have never used C40WP but it is usually widely recommended by professional breeders.  Dergall is the new wonder treatment which claims to put a sort of sticky web that traps the mites and kills them. I am trialling a product which is cheaper than Dergall. It is called Harmonix which claims to do the same thing as Dergall.  I will let you know how that goes. UPDATE: Harmonix is pleasant to use (surprise surprise) is residual and it does the job easily and quickly.

Good New Alternatives

Another wonder product is called Exzolt. However it is expensive, but weighing it against the cost of loads of chemicals and the time aspect, it is a good solution. You need to weigh your biggest bird and multiply the weight by the number of birds. Calculate this by 0.05 and it gives you the dosage in mls. Then you need to work out how much water your birds get through in half a day and add your dose to this amount of water. Repeat 7 days later. A vet will need to prescribe the amount of Exzolt for you. My birds for example need a dose of 5.5ml in 10 litres of water. Don’t expect it to be cheap, but it does work. There is no egg withdrawal period either so win-win. It is based on Fluralaner.

Natural controls for Red Mite

You can now get predator mites which you set free in your coop and they hunt and consume the red mite. They are called Androlis predator mites. Don’t use any other residual treatment on your coop if you are intending to use these. You don’t want to kill your little helpers. The downside of these is they are expensive and they can literally run away. It is also difficult to tell the difference between the good guys and the bad guys.

Very Questionable Solutions for Red Mite

Anecdotal evidence on Facebook forums say that Dettol pure and power, Jeyes fluid, Smite, blow torch, steam cleaning, jet washing, lime washing, diesel mixed with engine oil, siliconing, glossing, vegetable oil with fairy liquid etc have been used. Vaseline at the end of perches is also of little use. Red mite can climb and drop from the roof, they don’t follow the rules of the road and walk nicely along perches. Red Stop, Ivermectin, or heaven forbid Fipronil are all poor solutions. (Fipronil is banned for use in poultry due to egg contamination). Short of soaking your grandfathers beard clippings in vodka and dancing naked at full moon will not cure it either.

One thing is for sure, desperate people clutch at all these straws with varying degrees of success or repeated dismal failures. Many “treatments” result in spectacular coop bonfires as a kill all or cure all solution. Instead of messing about with questionable treatments, do something with a treatment that actually does what it says on the tin. SPEED IS OF THE ESSENCE here otherwise you will not have a dogs chance of getting on top of it. Basically, if it is not residual, then don’t waste your time or your money.

When to treat

The best time to treat is night when this chicken pest is most active. Hens cannot obviously be in attendance. This will give your neighbours much amusement I am sure.

What most people don’t realise is that one treatment is rarely/never enough. You need to catch the hatching eggs also before they turn into adults themselves. Treatment has to be done at least every other day so watching the soaps or the football is not an option. Postponing the job is going to give you a bigger headache if you delay it. If you let the eggs hatch then you will be wasting your time and money. The Red Mite chicken pest will win and your hens will be the losers. I cannot over-emphasise this.

Preventatives If No Mites Present

At every clean you can give the wooden coop a good spraying with Poultry Shield followed by a dusting with diatom (mite killing diatomaceous earth). It has to say that it kills red mite otherwise it won’t. The laws have changed on how you can describe cheap ebay diatom (DE). The cheap stuff is not the good stuff. This should keep the coop fairly or completely free of mites. If you get complacent about this chicken pest or lazy, they will quite literally bite you on the bum. Smite is also supposed to be a good preventative. It’s not a disinfectant though like Poultry Shield is. ONLY do this if you have no evidence of red mites. If you have found red mite then you must bring out the big guns and use residual insecticides.

If you are using a residual treatment like Harmonix, Dergall, Perbio Choc etc then don’t wash it away. Leave it to do its job. Diatom will ruin the effect of a residual treatment so don’t use that either on the structure of the coop. You can use it in the bedding or the dust bath but avoid spoiling all your hard work. Diatom will clog the web that most residual treatments produce making the treatment ineffective. Think of it like using sellotape on a dusty surface – pointless.

Plastic coops are not immune

A lot of plastic coops have double skins which are a perfect unseen haven for the red mite. They do not have as many crevices as a wooden coop though and are easier to remove red mite from if you find them. Pressure washing is NOT a good way to deal with Red Mite. This will just blow them away but they will return. It wont kill them. The Poultry Shield and Diatom regime is great for plastic coops also UNLESS you have an active infestation. As always – residual is best.

Monitoring

Red mite monitoring aid

In time honoured Blue Peter style. If you take a used cardboard tube from the toilet roll and use this as a holder for a rolled up sheet of corrugated cardboard.

Think of it as a serviette/napkin holder jobby. Place this somewhere in your coop such as attached to the underside of a perch. Periodically, unroll the cardboard and inspect it for this chicken pest. If you see a grey dust which will move when placed on your hand or red specks which are Red Mites which have recently fed within your “trap” you will need to treat your coop as a matter of urgency.

WARNING WARNING WARNING

This chicken pest can hitch a ride into your house so observe care you don’t introduce it to your sofa or bed as that would be a whole new world of pain. Believe me I know this.

Red Mite season Read More »

Broody Hen

Broody chicken

Is a Broody Hen a blessing or a curse?

Broody hen season is from Spring to Autumn and this is where your chickens sit and sit and sit and sit. Even when you lift the hen out of her nest she remains in a sitting position like she has lost the use of her legs.

I have been waiting for any of my girls to go broody because the easiest way to care for eggs and then chicks is to get a mother hen to do it for you. It’s the lazy persons way, but the best and most natural way to raise chicks.

How do you know your hen is broody?

  • She will be making a noise that sounds like “clock” “clock” “clock.
  • Your hen will be flattened in the nest box.
  • You may get pecked when you try to remove her as broodies can get rather moody and irritable.
  • Every time you look for her she will still be there in residence.  
  • When she moves around she will look and sound angry to the other hens and they will most likely attack her for her insolence if she is far enough down the pecking order.
  • On leaving the nest she will produce the most enormous poo that can be seen – and smelled – from space.

What can you do to stop her being broody

Either you want her to hatch eggs, in which case add some fertile eggs under her. This is best done at night if she is a bit cantankerous. Or you will need to “break” her out of her broody phase.

Contrary to popular belief, broodies are not hot. Their body temperature is normally about 41C which is higher than our own. An egg needs incubating at 37.5C which is cooler than a hens normal temperature. Eggs overheat at the normal chicken temp so it would be a fair assumption that a broody is actually cooler than a normal hen. She will pluck her breast feathers so that she has less insulation.

To break her you will need to keep her in a cage such as a dog cage with a wire bottom. This is to make her uncomfortable and unable to nest. Put food and water in her cage as she will need to be kept in there day and night for at least 2 days. It is important she is safe from predators and the weather. Test her after 2 days. If she returns to her nest, add another day in the “broody gaol” until she is no longer wanting to sit.

You can also prevent her from getting anywhere she can make a nest by locking her out. Your other hens will need access to the nests however. She can go back in with the others overnight if you wish but turf her out each day until she gives up. Cage will take 2-4 days, lockout will take about the same.

Why do I need to break her

Broodies that do not have a job to do will only eat and drink once a day. They will lose condition if allowed to sit indefinitely. Some breeds can literally broody themselves to death. Either let her hatch or break her. She may have repeated episodes of broodiness if she is particularly prone to it. Silkies, Pekins, Wyandottes, Sussexes, Goldtops, Orpingtons are some of the most broody breeds.  If you are unhappy feeling cruel to be kind, then it is a good idea to avoid getting any of the above breeds.

Broody Hen Read More »

New Delivery of Black Rock

Black Rock Hens

We are expecting a delivery of Black Rock hens and Brown Rock hens direct from the Muirfield hatchery week commencing 17/1/2022.

We have have placed an order for young chicks which are ideal for youngsters. They are past the delicate stage but are still small enough to be easy to handle. We have also added some point of lay birds to our order.

If you want to know more about these birds we have a page devoted to the breed. The breed page also a link for the Muirfield hatchery website. Eddie Lovett is the owner and breeder of the famous Black Rock birds which originated in Scotland. He (Eddie) took over the breeding line when Peter Siddons passed away. Before he died, Peter had given all of his knowledge to Eddie. This has enabled Eddie to could carry on Peter Siddons’ work of breeding the birds he loved. Black Rock hens also have a facebook page.

As we are an official Black Rock agent we get a regular delivery of Black Rock hens. Keep watching our site for news throughout the year. Our area is North West of England and North Wales. You could also join our newletter list to be updated.

Get in touch via our contact page if you would like to book any.

New Delivery of Black Rock Read More »

Chicks for Easter is Upon Us

Newly hatched chicks

Easter Chicks

Chicks for Easter are very popular with young families. Schools are very keen to uphold the typical imagery of Easter. This excitement passes to parents who keep the traditional events of Easter going. Of course, Easter is an original religious celebration which is very important to those of faith.

In nature, whenever you think of Easter, it is normal to also think of it as a Spring festival. Spring heralds new beginnings when birds begin nesting and gardens wake up after the long Winter’s slumber. Snowdrops, Daffodils and Crocuses poke their heads through the cold soil to give bees and other insects their first feasts of the year.

The animals often thought of as Easter icons are baby rabbits, and baby chicks. Both animals feature heavily on Easter cards because they are so cute and fluffy. Chocolate Easter eggs also appear on cards but come a close second. Adding pictures of chicks on almost every product is common around this time of year

Chicken breeders often begin to incubate chicken eggs in Spring. Easter is the date in the calendar when hatching starts in earnest. Fertility and egg numbers increase as the daylight hours become longer. This is good news for us as we can then start to think about building up our stock of chickens for sale. Raising baby chickens is definitely one of the nicest things about what we do. It is very much a guilty pleasure handling as many as possible.

Our pure breeds are Swedish Flower Hens, Salmon Faverolles, and USA Silkies. We also take delivery of official Black Rock, & Brown Rock at intervals during the year. Hy-line Browns are also available during the year. Hy-lines lay as many eggs as the better known Warrens or Lohmann Browns but they lay a darker egg.

Pitfalls of chicks to be aware of

If you are wanting to buy chicks for Easter then we will have plenty by then. We will want to know that you have done your research, so that they will be well looked after. If you want to check out our blog page on how to care for chicks, this will stand you in good stead. Baby chicks have specific care needs otherwise they can die. We want to avoid that at all costs.

Male or Female chickens – that is the question?

Our pure breed chicks are not sexed at the fluffy stage so there is a potential high risk of boys. Boys will turn into loud cockerels and are difficult to re-home if you cannot keep them.

Need a Guarantee of Hens?

How early can you sex a chicken? It depends on the breed. Some breeds are easy at 3 weeks, whereas some are impossible until some weeks later. We don’t offer a return on chicks that we sell as unsexed. If you want a hen guarantee, then you will need to wait until the chicks are roughly 6-8 weeks old before purchasing. This means they are beyond the fluffy stage but they still look quite cute because they are diddy versions of the older birds. We could sell male chicks like some other breeders do and promise that we have sold hens, but it is not our way. Honesty is important and our customers appreciate that.

Guaranteed Hens at Day Old

Hybrid chicks like our Hy-line Browns, Black Rock and Brown Rock are hatchery sexed. We offer a female guarantee with those at day-old.

Brown chicks peering out of a basket

Eggs and Science

As a bit of excitement for parents with children. Check out this website to have fun with eggs.

Chicks for Easter is Upon Us Read More »

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